finished wiring up a subpanel in this old garage conversion and i bundled all the neutrals together at the bottom, hots separated by circuit type on the sides, and grounds twisted neat on the back bar. kept everything color coded with tape for quick id. seems tidy but im second guessing if itll hold up during inspections. anyone got pics or tips on better ways? dont want to redo it all. works fine for pulling individual runs without tangling the rest.
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PestPatrol5⚒️ Journeyman2mo
3
looks solid to me, just make sure your neutrals aint touching hots anywhere.
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RookieRoofer🌱 Newcomer2mo
5
bundling neutrals is fine but i always use ferrules on the ends for grip. saves headaches later.
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DeckDoctor⭐ Expert2mo
7
good call, ill add those tomorrow.
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PipeLord420🌱 Newcomer2mo
2
color coding is key, but in my shop i label every bundle with tags. inspections love that shit. yours sounds decent tho, no major red flags.
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ChillMaster5⚒️ Journeyman2mo
4
ive seen setups like that fail when heat builds up from poor spacing. spread em out more if you can. also, twist grounds? nah, just bus em proper.
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RoofRat887⚒️ Journeyman2mo
6
bus bar yeah, but twisting helps in tight spots. depends on the job.
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BoltBoss2⭐ Expert2mo
1
fair, but code says bus it if possible. tight spots aint excuse for slop.
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VentVet2⚒️ Journeyman2mo
3
my go to is hots front, everything else rear fed. keeps it clean for troubleshooting.
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WattTheHeck28🔧 Apprentice2mo
2
sounds like overkill on the tape, but whatever floats your boat. as long as its neat and labeled, inspector wont care. i once had a guy bundle everything and it was a nightmare to fix. lesson learned, space matters.
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V6050🌱 Newcomer2mo
1
decent start, but add strain relief on those runs. ive pulled panels where loose wires yanked everything loose. took hours to sort. color code plus zip ties on groups works wonders. inspections passed easy. dont skip the torque specs on lugs either, loose connections bite back hard. your setup aint bad, just beef it up a tad for longevity.